Newcastle and Gateshead
Distance: 3 miles,
Minnimum Time: 1hr 15mins,
Difficulty: Easy,
Description:
While you're there: Visit some of Newcastle and Gatesheadâs museums and galleries. They include the Great North Museum, which opened in 2009 to house the collections of the Universityâs Museum of Antiquities, with Roman artefacts and the Hancock Museum, famous for natural history. The Laing Art Gallery displays some stunning Victorian paintings and Discovery gives a lively view of the cityâs history, its science and technology.
What to look out for: The Newcastle and Gateshead area is well-served by public transport, especially with its Metro system, the first rapid-transit electric railway in Britain. Partly underground, and with its hub at Monument Station beneath the statue to Earl Grey at the top of Grey Street, its first section was opened in 1981. Partially using existing rail lines, tunnels and bridges (which had to be upgraded and strengthened in a massive engineering effort) it was extended first to Newcastle Airport at Woolsington and later to Washington and Sunderland. Linking with local bus services, and with stops at Newcastle Central Station, Gateshead Station and Sunderland, the Metro has 40 million passenger journeys each year. The stations are indicated by a black letter M on a yellow background.
Where to eat and drink: There is no shortage of choice in Newcastle and Gateshead, from lively pubs and small cafÃ©s to grand hotels and exclusive restaurants. At the start and finish of the walk, Baltic has a good restaurant and a cafÃ©-bar.
Directions:
From the car park, follow the quayside path beside Baltic - the Centre for Contemporary Art and the Millennium Bridge into Baltic Square, then bear left up the steps to the road. Turn right along the road passing HMS Calliope and The Sage concert hall, finally passing underneath the arch of the Tyne Bridge. Symbol of Newcastle throughout the world, the semicircular bridge was built between 1925 and 1928 by Dorman Long of Middlesbrough. Further on is Robert Stephensonâs High Level Bridge (1849), with both rail and road crossings.
At the traffic lights, turn right and walk over the Swing Bridge, built by the great local engineering firm of Armstrong. It weighs 1,450 tons and is powered by Armstrongâs hydraulic engines. When it opened in 1876 it was the largest swing bridge in the world. At the end of the bridge, look right to see the half-timbered Bessie Surtees House, now cared for by English Heritage. It is a fine group of former merchantsâ houses and shops, rare survivors of 17th-century Newcastle.
Cross the road on your left and follow Westgate Road, parallel with the railway line. Continue ahead, but look left to see the faÃ§ade the fine railway station, a masterpiece by Newcastle architect John Dobson. The view here of Victorian Newcastle has opened out since the demolition of the brutalist 1972 monster Westgate House in 2007. The 12-storey office block formally spanned the roadway and was often listed among the publicâs most hated buildings. By St Johnâs Church on the right, turn right up Grainger Street. This area was developed by Richard Grainger in the first half of the 19th century, and has fine classically-inspired buildings. Grainger Market, with entrances on your left-hand side as you approach the Grey Monument, was the heart of his grand scheme, and is worth a visit.
Follow Grainger Street as far as the Grey Monument. This tall column, the heart of Graingerâs planning and of Newcastle, is 135ft (41m) high, and commemorates the parliamentary reformer Earl Grey. Turn right down Grey Street. Often called the finest street in Europe, it is lined with elegant classical buildings, and curves satisfyingly as it descends. The portico of the Theatre Royal forms an excellent punctuation mark.
At Mosley Street turn right. At the traffic lights, turn left by the tower of the Cathedral of St Nicholas with its rare âcrownâ. Bear left, downhill, with the Black Gate to your right. The road descends to go under a railway arch. Continue ahead to the Quayside, where markets are held and much of Newcastleâs pulsating nightlife is centred.
Turn left and follow the Quayside as far as the Millennium Bridge. Opened in 2001, it has a unique âblinking eyeâ mechanism that tilts to let ships go beneath it. Cross the bridge, then turn left, back to Baltic. Formerly a flour mill, this landmark building has been transformed into a centre for contemporary arts. There are observation platforms at various levels, with wonderful views over Newcastle and Gateshead.
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