And on to a Nature Reserve (Walk 13 option)
Distance: 2 miles,
Minnimum Time: 45mins,
Difficulty: Easy,
Description:
Craster evolved as a simple fishing village, prospering from once plentiful herring shoals. It later developed a second industry that exploited the whinstone cliffs behind. The hard volcanic rock proved ideal for road-building and the stone, cut into small blocks, was used as paving setts until the advent of tarred roads, when it was then crushed into aggregate. Quarrying ceased in the 1930s and the area has since reverted to natural scrub and woodland, harbouring a rich variety of both tree and plant species. Well sheltered, on the coast and with a stream below, it has developed into an important habitat particularly favoured by songbirds such as warblers, chiffchaff and blackcap. The thick foliage means they are not always easily seen, but their calls and songs let you know they are about.
While you're there: The nearby Howick Estate has been held by the Grey family since 1319. Although the 18thcentury hall isnât open to the public, its beautiful grounds are. Woodland walks and formal gardens have been thoughtfully designed to capture attention throughout the seasons.
What to look out for: Wandering through Craster, your nose is sure to lure you to Robsonâs Smokehouse, where kipper-making has been a family business for four generations. Famed throughout the country, they are cured in a traditional manner and, although the herrings are no longer landed at Craster harbour, the kippers are as good as any you will find.
Where to eat and drink: Itâs not easy to resist the pervasive aroma of the smokehouse, where a small restaurant serves kippers and other local delicacies too. Alternatively, try the village pub, the Jolly Fisherman, well respected and especially famous for its crab sandwiches. The cafÃ© by the car park is also conveniently sited for hot and cold snacks.
Directions:
1 Start by an information panel in the car park behind the tourist information centre, where a footpath is signed to Craster South Farm. It leads through the now-luxuriant woodland of the reserve at the base of the former quarries. Where the path later forks, bear left to arrive shortly at a kissing gate. Walk out of the field corner on a path that heads through a shallow gully. Keep going where the way levels above to find a kissing gate near the far corner.
2 Emerging on to a lane turn left and follow it for 0.25 mile (400m) to Howick Scar farm, turn in beside the cottage at a sign to Craster, and walk through the yard. Keep going through gates past barns and on along a field track, rising to a break in the gorse-clad cliffs ahead, Long Heugh.
3 Emerging at the edge of rough grazing bear left along the top towards the corner of the enclosure and there turn right, following the boundary towards the coast. Ignore a footpath off on the left and continue down to a kissing gate in the bottom corner. The village lies only a short distance along the coast and you can keep to the low cliff top behind the houses until almost reaching the harbour. There, turn in through a small garden area behind the village pub to the street. Walk down past the smokehouse to the harbour, and go left to return to the car park.
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