Ludâs Church and the Roaches
The jagged ridge of the Roaches is one of the most popular outdoor locations in the Peak District National Park. The name is a corruption of the French for rocks - roches. It was here on the gritstone crags that the âworking class revolutionâ in climbing took place in the 1950s. Manchester lads, Joe Brown, a builder, and Don Whillans, a plumber, went on to become legends within the climbing fraternity by developing new rock climbing techniques wearing gym shoes and using Joeâs motherâs discarded clothes line as a rope. Other, less tangible legends, surround this long outcrop, several of them attached to Doxey Pool. Locals speak in hushed voices of a young mermaid, who lived in the pool but was captured by a group of men. If the stories are to be believed her ghost can still be heard singing through the mist. Lurking in the darkest depths of the pool is Jenny Greenteeth, a hideous monster with green skin, long hair and sharp teeth, who grabs the ankles of anyone unfortunate enough to get too close, dragging them to a watery grave.
sir gawain and the Green Knight: But the greatest legend associated with the Roaches is the Arthurian tale of Sir Gawain and the Green Knight. According to the 14th-century poem a knight on horseback, cloaked entirely in green, gatecrashed a feast at Camelot and challenged the Knights of the Round Table. Sir Gawain rose to the challenge and beheaded the Green Knight but the latter retrieved his head and laughingly challenged Sir Gawain to meet with him again, in a yearâs time, at the Green
Chapel. This has been identified as Ludâs Church, near the Roaches. In the 1950s Professor Ralph Elliot, now of the University of Adelaide in Australia, identified the Roaches as the general location of the chapel from the text. Great crooked crags, cruelly jagged, the bristling barbs of rock seemed to brush the sky Professor Elliotâs theory was supported by a group of linguists, working on the poem at the same time, who placed the work in the same 15-mile (25km) radius. The professor and a group of students from Keele University, where he was then based, tramped all over the countryside looking for a suitable cave to match the poetic description. A hole in each end and on either side, And overgrown with grass and great patches All hollow it was within, only an old cavern Or the crevice of an ancient crag Ludâs Church fitted the bill. This rocky cleft was created by a mass of sandstone slipping away from the slope of the hill. It was here that Sir Gawain kept his rendezvous with the Green Knight resulting in that ghostly gentleman losing his head for a second time.
While you're there: Leek is a magnet for antique hunters. As well as having a host of antique dealers, thereâs an open-air craft and antique market each Saturday in the historic Market Square. Other markets include the Butter Market, selling mainly fresh traditional produce, on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Also worth visiting is the water-powered corn mill at Brindleyâs Mill.
Where to eat and drink: The Roaches Tearoom at Paddock Farm sits beneath the rocky outcrop of Henâs Cloud almost opposite the car parking area. The food is home-made, excellent and thereâs plenty of it. Thereâs a conservatory overlooking a herb garden and superb views across Tittesworth Reservoir. Itâs open daily all year.
What to look out for: Look out for Rock Hall cottage built into the rock and containing at least one room that is a natural cave. This listed building is a former gamekeeperâs residence, currently owned by the Peak District National Park. Restored in 1989, and now known as the Don Whillans Memorial Hut, the bothy can be booked through the British Mountaineering Council by small groups of climbers.
Directions:
From the lane go through the main gate by the interpretation panel and follow the path half right to the end of the rocks. At a gate in the wall on your right, turn left and straight uphill on a rocky track. Go left through a pair of stone gateposts and continue right on a well-defined track. The path is flanked by rocks on the right and woodland to the left and below. Follow it to the right and uphill through a gap in the rocks. Turn left and then continue uphill. Continue following this ridge path. Pass to the left of Doxey Pool and on towards the trig point. 3 From here descend on a paved path, past the Bearstone Rock to join the road at Roach End. Go through a gap in the wall, over a stile and follow the path uphill keeping the wall on the left. At the signpost fork right on to the concessionary path to Danebridge. 4 Follow this path keeping straight ahead at a crossroads, go through a wall gate and up towards an outcrop. Carry on along the ridge then head down to a signpost by a gate. Turn right and follow the bridleway signed âGradbachâ. At the next signpost fork right towards Ludâs Church. 5 After exploring Ludâs Church continue along the path, through woodland, following the signs for Roach End, eventually taking a paved path uphill. Keep the wall on your left-hand side and at the top, cross a stile on to the gated road and follow this back to the lay-by near Windygates Farm.
Hike
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