The Pass of Ryvoan and the Theives' road
Time: 2hrs 15mins
Ascent: 400ft
Difficulty Level: 2 - Medium
Paths: Smooth tracks, one steep ascent, no stile
Landscape: Views over Rothiemurchus Forest to Cairngorm
Dog Friendliness: Off lead but under close control
Parking: Bridge just south of Glenmore village
Public Toilets: Glenmore village
Description:
The Pass of Ryvoan has all the atmosphere of a classic Cairngorm through-route. Itâs a scaled down version of the famous and fearsome Lairig Ghru that cuts through the Cairngorm range southwards from Aviemore. You pass from the shelter of the forest to a green lochan, trapped between two high and stony mountainsides. Once through the narrow gap, youâll find wide moors and a ring of peaks around the horizon. Thieving Ways. Ryvoan marked the exit of the Thievesâ Road that ran out of Rannoch and Lochaber by secret ways through the Rothiemurchus Forest. The MacDonalds of Glen Coe used to come raiding here in the 17th century, as did Clan Cameron from Loch Eil near Fort William. Once through the pass, they could take their pick from the rich lands of Moray and Aberdeenshire. In more settled times, the raiding chieftains became landlords, and their rents were paid in the small black cattle of the glens. Every autumn, the drove herds assembled for their long walk to the markets of Falkirk, Perth and northern England.
The Old Drove Road. The drovers used the same road as their thieving grandfathers, but once through the pass they turned sharp right across the flank of the mountain. The Lairig an Lui, the Pass of the Calves, crosses the dangerous ford of the Avon and runs down Glen Derry to Braemar. Itâs 30 miles (48km) to the next grazing and shelter - two full days for the drove. Overnight the cattle would snatch some grazing from the rough grasses, while the drovers cooked their oatmeal and potatoes, before rolling themselves in their woollen plaids on a bed of heather. As late as 1859, Queen Victoria found the Lairig path torn up by hooves and scented with fresh cow pats. The Sithe and Others. Lochan Uaine means âGreen Lochâ. Some say the green colour is caused by flecks of mica. Others claim that itâs where the fairies wash their green garments. The Highland fairies, the Sithe (pronounced âSheeâ), donât dance around with wands and grant you wishes. They are touchy and vengeful, and if you meet one it is best to address him politely in good Gaelic. Precautions you can take are to avoid wearing green, which is known to annoy them, and never to address your friends by name while under the trees. The Bodach Lamh-dearg is a spectre who appears wrapped in a grey plaid with one bloodstained hand, challenging passers-by to a fight and leaving their bodies for the foxes. Big Donald, the King of the Fairies, lived beside Loch Morlich.
While you're there: Reintroduced to the Cairngorms after an absence of around 1,000 years, the Glenmore reindeer herd is based at Glenmore village. From the Reindeer Centre youâll be taken up the hill to visit the herd. Some of the reindeer pull sleighs in Christmas parades.
What to look out for: Elsewhere in Britain, red squirrels are being supplanted by their big grey cousins which were introduced from America. However, the red squirrelâs smaller teeth are better adapted to life among the pines, and it is widespread in the Rothiemurchus Forest. Typically theyâll run up the side of a tree trunk facing away from you, but then youâll see them escaping through the branches overhead. You may get a close-up view at the Glenmore CafÃ©.
Where to eat and drink: The Forestry Commissionâs visitor centre has a cafÃ© serving baked potatoes and snacks. Across the road, the Glenmore CafÃ© offers chips, toasties and red squirrels - the squirrels are outside, using a feeder placed directly opposite the windows.
Directions:
Head upstream on a sandy track to the left of the river. Interpretation signs explain the flowers of the forest you may come across, many of which are ferns and mosses. After 550yds(503m), turn left on a wide smooth path with blue/yellow waymarkers. Ahead is a gate into Glenmore Lodge rifle range; here the path bends right, to a wide gravel track. 2 Turn right, away from Glenmore Lodge, to cross a concrete bridge into the Caledonian Reserve. Immediately keep ahead on a smaller track (marked by a blue waymarker) as the main one bends right. The track narrows as it heads into the Pass of Ryvoan between steep wooded slopes of pine, birch and scree. At this, the most scenic part of the route, a path turns left, with a blue waymarker, which you take in a moment. Just beyond this, steps on the right lead down to Lochan Uaine. Walk round to the left of the water on the beach. At the head of the loch a small path leads back up to the track. Turn sharp left, back to the junction already visited; now turn off to the right on to the narrower path with the blue waymarker. 3 This small path crosses some duckboard and heads back down the valley. Very soon it starts to climb steeply to the right, up rough stone steps. When it levels off the going is easier, although itâs still narrow with tree roots. The path reaches a forest road at a bench and a waymarker. 4 Continue to the left along the track. After a clear-felled area with views, the track re-enters trees and slopes downhill into Glenmore village. Just above the main road turn right, through a green barrier, to reach Glenmore Visitor Centre. Pass through its car park to the main road. 5 Cross to Glenmore shop. Behind a post-box, steps lead down to the campsite. Pass along its right-hand edge to a path into woods. Head left across a footbridge to the shore of Loch Morlich and follow the beaches until another river blocks the way. Turn left along the river bank. Ignore a footbridge, but continue on the wide path with the river on your right. Where the path divides, the smaller branch continues beside the river through bushes to the car park.
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