Skye and Sea
Minimum Time: 2hrs 15mins
Ascent: 400ft
Difficulty Level: 1 - Easy
Paths: Track, then rough path, 1 stile
Landscape: Rocky moorland and coastline
Dog Friendliness: On leads
Parking: Walkersâ pull-off at gate into Glenbrittle campsite
Public Toilets: Glenbrittle campsite
Description:
This is an easy coastal walk on good, firm paths. Itâs popular on days when the mountains are under a cloak of cloud and hillwalkers donât fancy attempting the famous Inaccessible Pinnacle up on the ridge. But the views back from Creag Mhor make it just as worthwhile, even on those very special days when you can actually see the Cuillin Hills.
While you're there: If you think the Cuillins are scary, then you certainly shouldnât visit the Skye Serpentarium at Broadford (open Easter - September). However, you could steer clear of the snake-handling sessions and instead just see the baby tortoises, lizards, iguanas and tree frogs.
What to look for: For those who go adventuring beyond Slochd Dubh, thereâs a neolithic chambered cairn at the north end of Loch na h-Airde. A wall runs from the sea to the loch head, with a gap for the path - the cairn is just before the wall, and about 20yds (18m) to the left of the gap. Its entrance archway still stands, although its central room has collapsed. Pieces of pottery and six skeletons were found here.
Where to eat and drink: The Old Inn at Carbost has a terrace overlooking Loch Harport. This is a local pub rather than a tourist resort. The bar food is inexpensive and substantial. Dogs and children are welcome.
Directions:
From the parking area, the track leads on through the campsite to a kissing gate. The campsite shop, which sells ice cream and midge nets, is just up to the left here. Go through the gate and pass to the left of the campsiteâs toilet block to cross a stile. Here paths divide; take the right-hand one, below a water tank. The path runs just above the shoreline and is reasonably clear and firm. After crossing one fair-sized stream, mile (1.6km) out from the camp site it reaches the much larger Allt Coire Lagan, which drains the high wild corrie visited in Walk 32. If the stream is too full to cross, head upstream for a short distance to a footbridge, then continue up to join a track that runs parallel to the path at a slightly higher level. If you do manage to cross the Allt Coire Lagan, the path continues beyond, becoming gradually fainter and bearing up left to join the track just mentioned. Across Loch Brittle is a landscape of flat layers, typical basalt country formed from lava flows. You are crossing similar ground on the walk, very different from the jagged Cuillins above. The track fords a stream on bare rock, with a little gorge and waterfall just above. Now the way, while remaining easy, becomes more exciting; a low outcrop is above, and the top edge of sea cliffs are just below the path. At the next stream crossing, where the track bends slightly down towards the sea, take a path forking up to the left. It ascends gradually, crossing a small stream and reaching the corner of a lochan. This moorland pool, with its bogbean and waterlilies, is a foreground for the Cuillin peaks. From here youâre looking straight into Coire Lagan. At the back right corner of the corrie is Sgurr Alasdair, the highest point of Skye. Just beyond the lochan, the path divides: keep up slightly right, onto the flat-topped rock knoll of Creag Mhor. Continue to a rounded knoll just beyond. Ahead and to the left is the island of Soay. Further away, the Isle of Rum is of the same rugged black rock as the Cuillins. Looking down to the right, towards Loch Brittle, you can see the return path just below. Ahead, a faultline valley crosses the entire peninsula from side to side. This is the Slochd Dubh, or Black Gap. For thousands of years, the peninsula beyond the Slochd Dubh was a place of settlement and sanctuary, the stronghold of the MacAskills. Only 150 years ago there were still 20 families living here. A small canal has been built to let rowing galleys through at high tide into the small Loch na h-Airde. Above it is a fortified promontory or dun whose stonework still stands. All this ground today is very tough walking, where the small paths peter out into a jumble of bog and crag. Directions for this, if you want them, are simple. Go past the wall that runs along the Slochd Dubh, get lost, then come back to the same point. Your route goes down to the Slochd Dubh and then turns back. From Creag Mhor the direct descent into the valley is steep, so head left 100yds (91m) then head down a grassy gap with a small path. At the foot of the slope, turn right onto the start of the track. It runs back below the outcrop of Creag Mhor, with the sea below on your left, and soon rejoins the outward route. For a slightly easier return to the campsite, keep following the rough track that runs above the path of the outward journey. At the ford of Allt Coire Lagan, go down to the footbridge if necessary, then rejoin the track. Once above the campsite, a small path on the left runs down to the toilet block. Just beyond it, you can bear left to follow the beach back to the car park.
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