Seeing Sea Eagles at Portree Bay
Minimum Time: 1hr 15mins
Ascent: 459ft
Difficulty Level: 1 - Easy
Paths: Smooth, well-made paths, farm track, 3 stiles
Landscape: Views across Minch from wooded coast and hill above
Dog Friendliness: Dogs on lead through farmland, scoop poop on shore path
Parking: On A855 (Staffin Road) above Portree Bay. Another small parking area near slipway
Public Toilets: Town centre, just off main square
Description:
While walking beside Portree Bay, keep at least one eye looking out to sea. You may spot what has been described as Britainâs greatest conservation story. Sea Eagle Story. The last sea eagle in Scotland died on Skye in the early 1900s. Like all large raptors, it was shot at by shepherds and gamekeepers. An attempt to reintroduce them in 1959 failed. In 1975, a secret RAF mission flew four young birds from Norway to the island of Rum. Over the next ten years, they were joined by 80 more. Today, about a dozen pairs are nesting here, with a total population of around 100 spread up along the western coast and the Hebrides. In Gaelic it is called âiolaire suil na greineâ - the eagle with the sunlit eye - as its eye is a golden colour. In English itâs also called the white-tailed eagle, the white-tailed fish eagle and the European sea eagle; it hasnât been back here long enough to finalise its name. Its nickname is the âflying barn doorâ because itâs so big, but itâs not a heavy bird. Even with its 8ft (2.4m) wingspan, it weighs in at just 7lb (3kg). The sea eagle nests in cliffs. One nest, with an RSPB hide, is at Loch Frisa on Mull, another here at Portree. The Aros Experience visitor centre has a closed-circuit TV camera trained on the nest, and the Portree fishermen have taken to throwing seafood to the birds outside the bay. The eagle feeds by snatching fish out of the sea - but even more spectacular is its mating display, when the two birds soar and cartwheel high above the water.
Was that an Eagle? The first few eagles you think you see are almost certainly buzzards. When you see a real eagle, and even though you canât tell how far away it is, youâll know it for what it is. Itâs four times the size of a buzzard and its wingbeats are so slow and powerful. Thatâs when it isnât gliding from one horizon to the other apparently without moving a feather. The sea eagle is even bigger than the golden one, and has a white tail - but so does a young golden eagle. But if the eagle is flying over the sea, and especially if itâs over the sea at Portree, then itâs a sea eagle. Naturalists believed that the birdâs main problem would be the golden eagle, which during the years of extinction had taken over the nest sites. But sadly, the real enemy is still humans. In 2000, and despite a 24-hour guard, thieves took the two eggs from the Mull pair.
While you're there: The Aros Experience, just south of Portree, has the RSPBâs closed-circuit TV link with the sea eagle nest. Nest action is between April and July (the young hatch in April). The centre also has an exhibition and audiovisual centre dedicated to the people of Skye, including Bonnie Prince Charlie. Outside there are some short forest walks.
What to look out for: The strangely level meadow called The Bile is a raised beach that formed during the ice age. As the ice melted, the sea level rose, but at the same time, the land rose much further as the weight of overlying ice was removed. The result is that this former beach is now 100ft (30m) above the sea.
Where to eat and drink: There is a wide choice of pubs and cafÃ©s above the harbour. On the pier itself is the Lower Deck seafood restaurant, with a chip shop for those in a hurry. Vegetarians should head for CafÃ© Arriba. For an unpretentious pub meal try the Tongadale Hotel.
Directions:
Turn off the main A855 on to a lane signed âBudh Morâ, to walk down to the shoreline and then continue to a small parking area. A tarred path continues along the shore past a slipway. After a footbridge, it passes under hazels which show the typical ground-branching habit of bushes formerly coppiced, cut back every seven years for firewood. The path passes below a viewpoint with flagpoles and then rounds the headland to reach the edge of a level green field called The Bile. 2 A wall runs up the edge of The Bile. A sign points up left for Scorybreck but ignore it and go through a small gate ahead. A rough path leads into the corner of The Bile field. Go up its left edge and turn across its top, to a stile just above a field gate. Cross the top of the next field on an old green path, to a stile at its corner. You will see a track just beyond. 3 Turn sharp left, up the track. At the top it passes through two gates to reach a stony road just to the right of Torvaig. Turn left past the house and cross the foot of a tarred road into a gently descending track. It runs down between two large corrugated sheds and then through to a gate with a stile. 4 The grassy path ahead leads down into Portree, but you can take a short, rather rough, diversion to Dun Torvaig (an ancient fortified hilltop) above. For the dun, turn left along the fence, and left again on a wellmade path above. It leads to a kissing gate above the two sheds. Turn sharp right along the fence for a few steps, then bear left around the base of a small outcrop and head straight up on a tiny path to the dun. Remnants of dry-stone walling can be seen around the summit. Return to the well-made path, passing above Point 4 to join the wall on the right. The path leads down under goat willows into a wood where it splits; stay close to the wall. 5 At the first houses (The Parks Bungalow 5), keep downhill on a tarred street. On the left is the entrance to the Cuillin Hills Hotel. A few steps later, fork right on to a stony path. At the shore road, turn right across a stream and at once right again on a path that runs up for 60yds (55m) to a craggy little waterfall. Return to the shore road and turn right to the walk start.
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